Stories & Musings
From the Journal
At the Edge of the Sky
A Royal Enfield solo journey from Manali to Leh. River crossings, moonrise over a dhaba, and the blue of Pangong Tso that has no name in any language...
The Last Valley
Mechuka has a way of making you feel chosen. 140km of forest road, zero phone signal, and a valley that has not yet decided to become a destination...
The Road That Writes Itself in Cursive
A motorcycle through the Khasi Hills to Asia's cleanest village. The road that writes itself in cursive, a reservoir found by taking the wrong turn...
The Island That Lives in the Present Tense
Majuli, the world's largest river island, shrinks every monsoon and deepens every year. A mask painter, the Brahmaputra ferry, and children who play without looking at you...
What Nobody Tells You About Darjeeling
Not the tea, not the toy train. The ancient temperate forests that nobody writes about — ferns older than the tea estates, trees so tall they block the sky in sections...
The City That Keeps Its Own Counsel
Aizawl sits on a ridge above everything. A solo scooter ride to Reiek Tlang through mist that lives among things, not above them. The city that knows exactly who it is...